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2001-10-21 in Padang, Sumatra, Indonesia Taking the love boat! The things I do for my family, I tell ya! I am of the opinion that riding across Java is no more dangerous than riding across London. But in order to satisfy the nerves of the women in both Louise�s and my family I am presently in the confinement of Indonesia�s answer to the QE2, and believe me � there is no comparison. Yesterday my odometer clocked 50,000 kms (see pic) and to celebrate this I thought the best way to would be to be trapped on a moving prison serving less-than-prison-grade food and keeping most of the exits locked. I have new empathy for inmates of prison who get their one hour of sunshine before going back to the slammer. As I pace the deck which is littered with mattresses and chain smoking locals, I wonder why I didn�t just put on an �I love the USA� T-shirt and drive across Java, I am sure I would have preferred the experience!
So I am no good being confined in the sleeping quarters of a ship, fair enough, but these people serve breakfast at 6 am, lunch at 11:30 am and dinner at 5:30 pm. So much for dining with the captain�s table followed by a light foxtrot, the only trotting I�ll be doing is running to the loo after eating the awful food.
Let me back up a bit and tell you the logistics of getting my bike onboard. It all began with a phone call to the Padang (Sumatra) office of the government-run shipping line and enquiring whether it would be possible to ship my bike if I chose to travel on one of their �luxury liners�, I was told to come and see them in person when I got to Padang. Upon my arrival the head cook and bottle washer tells me that it is against all regulations to ship motorcycles or motorcars on his ship, but for me he�ll make a special exception. So far so good. I then enquire of the price and he assures me it is nothing to worry about, and I figure that since my 1st class ticket costs about USD 70 that shipping can't be costing me nearly as much! So off the lackeys go to buy wood and nails to build the crate that bossman is insisting on. About 2 hours go by, during this time work has commenced on the crate by the two most incompetent carpenters of all time. The first guy keeps losing his grip on his hammer causing panic whenever he raises it in case it goes flying towards to the crowd of onlookers and his assistant is forever screwing the handle back on his saw as it keeps falling in two, not exactly an advert for Black & Decker.
The bossman gently calls me aside and tells me that he has spoken to his superiors and the least they can charge me for is five metric tons of cargo. He also explains that they have bought all the supplies for the crate and of course I am liable for these costs. So in the end shipping my bike around Java has cost me more than it would to ship from Singapore to Australia.
At the time I thought at least I would be in the comfort of a 1st class cabin and all this would fade into the back of my mind but since I am trapped in this roach-infested flea-bag of a tub, I am venting my anger. Just 24 hours, I keep telling myself this, but I can almost feel more trouble to come before we pull into port. I can't wait!

up, up and away! |

asking the locals very nicely not to drop my box |

the amazing ensemble it took to make a simple crate |
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my favourite picture this year, 50,000 kms!!!! |
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